On straight legs
The return was going smoothly. Below the steep bluffs, there were no major difficulties left. But another problem appeared.
Our clunky boots, which had worked so well in the snow above, weren’t helping now. Thick, stiff soles on rock put a lot of strain on the joints. Especially going downhill with a heavy pack. I descended with my legs almost straight because bending my knees was difficult. Every step was torture.
Following the stream, we reached the Tutoko River. Over five days, the water level had dropped noticeably. The river that had battered us on the way in, mainly me, gave us no trouble this time.
After crossing, we headed down the valley towards the road. We still had some way to go before the marked DOC track when we spotted a helicopter.
Are you Joanna?
Two days earlier, we’d seen plenty of helicopters taking tourists on scenic flights over the mountains. This one was flying differently. Low, along the valley. Straight towards us.
When the pilot spotted us, he landed just ahead. A man jumped out, walked over and asked:
"Are you Joanna?"
I said yes.
"Are you Willy?"
Willi said yes too.
They were rescuers from Search and Rescue Wanaka. They were looking for us.
We’d been reported missing. According to the information they’d received, we should have returned two days earlier. The police in Te Anau had called them out.
Meanwhile, we were finishing our five-day trip, pleased with the success of the mission and walking calmly back to the van.
The rescuer couldn’t tell us who’d raised the alarm. He just asked whether everything was all right and whether we needed help. We didn’t. We could walk out under our own steam.
He took it all in his stride. He was glad we were unhurt. He said they’d make a circuit over the mountains, check a few more things and head back to base. Before leaving, he asked us to report to the police station in Te Anau and clear things up.
He returned to the helicopter. Willi stood there, stunned. His English was fairly limited, and he hadn’t really understood what had just happened. When we started walking again, I explained the conversation.
Two notes
In the forest, we finally stepped onto soft, spongy ground. My knees stopped hurting straight away. I could walk normally again.
The landscape changed completely too. We left behind the stark world of rock, snow and ice and stepped into lush, all-enveloping greenery full of life. Damp moss, giant ferns and chirping birds.
Mud and sizeable puddles appeared on the track. Normally, they’d have been obstacles. Now, they were a remedy for aching joints. Walking through them was much easier than walking on dry but hard rock.
We reached the van towards evening.
Before setting out, we’d left a note inside the windscreen. Originally, it had explained that we were staying at Homer Hut. After leaving Homer, we’d crossed out the part about the hut and added that we’d set off for Tutoko.
Now, a second note waited under the windscreen wiper.
It said Search and Rescue had begun looking for us. We were to report in and let them know we’d returned.
We’d planned to go to Te Anau anyway, to visit my friends. Since the SAR team had already found us, and it was Sunday evening, we decided there was no need to rush there at breakneck speed.
We’d rest and leave the following morning.
